Paddling the Chuckanut Shoreline

Joe Meche is a past president of the North Cascades Audubon Society and is still active in chapter affairs.He has been watching birds for more than 60 years and photographing birds and landscapes for more than 40 years. He has written more than 140 articles for Whatcom Watch.

After all the buzz and excitement of the nesting season, there’s always a big drop in avian activity that I refer to as the Dog Days of Birding. Birds that have young in tow are generally quieter and harder to find. This is nature’s way and a time for bird watchers to relax and enjoy whatever might be around, without the songs and bright colors. July and August are usually the peak times for this annual occurrence, but the tides will turn eventually. Speaking of tides, if you find that most of our terrestrial birds are few and far between and you want to exert a little effort, consider one of Whatcom County’s hidden treasures – the Chuckanut shoreline.

This place is hidden, for the most part, because it’s largely inaccessible except by water. The best watercraft you can use if you wish to be less of a disturbance is a kayak or a canoe. The concept of a self-propelled craft allows for a much quieter passage and the birds and marine mammals that you encounter along the way will see you as less of an intrusion. It’s also infinitely more enjoyable to get away from the noise of traffic and people for a while. I‘ve done many variations of this paddle for more than thirty years and every time has been special in its own way.

I recall a sunset paddle with a group of friends to Clayton Beach years ago. We started a nice campfire on the beach and roasted the ubiquitous hot dogs but the main event was on everyone’s mind – watching the full moon rising over Chuckanut Mountain. It was also the day of the fall equinox so everyone was keyed for a unique celebration. Our timing wasn’t that good, however, and it became very dark and still no moon. We were only slightly disappointed so we decided to leave and head back toward Wildcat Cove. Shortly after we cast off, the full moon cleared the ridge and burst upon the scene, with cheers ringing out from all the paddlers! Our return to the boat launch was quite thrilling in the moonlight.

Other memorable trips include night paddles when the bioluminescence was thick and the water was alive with every paddle stroke. The bows of our canoes created a neon-like wake as we moved quietly through this marine phenomenon. There is a spiritual energy to be gained by being on or near water and this was testimony to that concept. Another trip had a humbling twist in that I was forced to spend the night a mile or so up the shoreline because of a sudden, unexpected south wind that made my return virtually impossible. Luckily, I had a sleeping bag and a tarp onboard, so the night went well, despite the wind and rain.

The best starting point to explore and get to know the Chuckanut shoreline is the boat launch area of Wildcat Cove at Larrabee State Park. Depending on your allotted time and stamina, the distance you cover is totally up to you. From Wildcat Cove, your choices are to head north or south. If you go north, you can paddle all the way to the waterfront in Fairhaven or Bellingham. If you go south, you can stop at Clayton Beach or continue down the shoreline. The southern reaches of Chuckanut are shallow and subject to tidal extremes so take caution if you venture too far into Skagit County.

On a Sunday morning in early July, I embarked on the latest Chuckanut paddle, this time by kayak. My plan for the day was to look into the status of at least two pairs of nesting black oystercatchers. I was not ten minutes from the boat launch when I encountered one of the adults and before long, two chicks. I had been observing this site for several weeks prior to getting down to water level. I had seen and photographed the eggs from a high bluff almost 100 yards away so this was a real treat for me to see the two-week-old chicks.

As I continued to paddle north toward Chuckanut Bay I found myself, once again, intrigued by the intricate patterns of erosion on the Chuckanut sandstone. Ages and ages of rain and wave action have created some of the most elaborate formations you’ll ever see. And again, it’s made all the more special by the fact that you cannot see this from above – you have to be on the water, so it’s an exclusive viewing opportunity. As many times as I’ve seen every stretch of this shoreline, I still appreciate nature’s work.

An ever-changing variety of birds and mammals presented themselves as I paddled. River otters and harbor seals revealed themselves, albeit reluctantly. Bald eagles and great blue herons shared air space with the usual assortment of gulls, while belted kingfishers chattered overhead. By the time I reached Chuckanut Island, the birding tempo increased dramatically. Another family of oystercatchers was waiting as I pulled into my traditional lunch beach. This family had three five-week-old chicks. Along with more gulls were handsome harlequin ducks and pigeon guillemots, which have several nesting burrows on the island.

Chuckanut Island is owned by the Nature Conservancy and the restrictions for enjoying this unique spot are prominently posted. Long-time Audubon member George Garlick managed the property, and I recall seeing him and his wife, Lois, rowing out across the bay from their home on the mainland. There was always an active bald eagle nest in the tallest Douglas fir in the center of the island, but it fell into disuse and hasn’t been rebuilt in years. It seems to be a perfect location for a nest, but maybe the eagles know something that I don’t.

North of Chuckanut Island is a group of rocks known collectively to most of us as the Chuckanut Rocks. These rocks are a magnet for nesting birds, as evidenced by the heavy coating of guano, which gives the rocks a white-washed appearance. This guano also attracts hordes of flies, so be prepared to be annoyed while you enjoy the birds and seals. Numerous pigeon guillemots, three species of cormorants, gulls, and shorebirds utilize the rocks throughout the year so there’s always something to see.

At the end of the day, as I paddled back toward Wildcat Cove, I reflected on all my previous trips along this same shoreline. It’s such a short drive from home to Wildcat Cove, and if you don’t own a kayak, there are many rentals available near the waterfront in Bellingham and in Fairhaven. The Chuckanut sandstone will mesmerize you, and the birds and marine mammals will delight you. As I pulled into the cove I could feel the effects of paddling for six hours, but the sights and sounds of the day were more than enough to alleviate any thought of pain.