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A Pass, a Park, and a Bridge


December 2014

Beaks and Bills

A Pass, a Park, and a Bridge

by Joe Meche

Joe Meche is a past president of the North Cascades Audubon Society and is still active in chapter affairs.He has been watching birds for more than 60 years and photographing birds and landscapes for more than 40 years. He has written more than 140 articles for Whatcom Watch.

If free time is at a premium and you don’t look forward to spending the day in your vehicle, consider a one-hour drive to Whidbey Island and Washington’s most popular state park. With 4,134 acres of woodlands, 77,000 feet of saltwater shoreline, and almost 34,000 feet of freshwater shoreline to explore, the spectacular scenery of Deception Pass State Park draws more than two million visitors every year. The park was established in 1923, when most of the land was transferred to the state parks system. Much of the work developing the park was performed in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps.

This unique park combines the rugged natural beauty of the Pacific Northwest with the breathtaking twin spans of the Deception Pass Bridge. This impressive bridge is 927 feet long and connects Whidbey and Fidalgo Islands. Part of the span crosses small Pass Island, which sits between the two larger islands. The bridge deck is 180 feet above the water and was designed to be pedestrian-friendly.

On clear days, bridge walkers see outstanding views of Mount Baker to the northeast and the open expanse of the Strait of Juan de Fuca to the west. Below the bridge, a dynamic natural phenomenon unfolds continually as the tides ebb and flow through the narrow passage that connects the Strait of Juan de Fuca to Skagit Bay and the southern reaches of Puget Sound.

Deception Pass played a key role in the early history of northern Puget Sound. Coast Salish tribes lived in the area for thousands of years before the first European explorers arrived in 1790. Sailors from the Vancouver Expedition, led by Master Joseph Whidbey, first mapped this unique pass in 1792. Its name comes from the “deception” that Whidbey Island is a peninsula, when in fact it is not.

The beaches of Deception Pass State Park are made for long sunset walks, or early morning beachcombing if you prefer. From West Beach, a trail just above the beach leads into a myriad of sand dunes and weathered seaside trees that look nothing like their counterparts farther inland. The North Beach Trail leads to the base of the south span of the bridge. This is where the narrowest part of the pass literally squeezes the strong tidal flow into standing waves at times, creating class two and three whitewater conditions. The tidal surge is so strong that small boats often wait for the tidal shift before navigating the passage.

There are three separate campgrounds within the park boundary, and reservations are encouraged between the season-defining holidays of Memorial Day and Labor Day. Even though most of the campground space is closed during the winter months, part of it remains open for the hardy winter camping experience. With the moderate marine influence, however, winter camping can be delightful and certainly less crowded.

Hiking trails abound in the park and include several miles of the Pacific Northwest Trail; one section of this trail actually crosses the bridge on State Highway 20. There is no other place quite like this for a diversity of hiking terrain. From any point in the park, you can take one extended hike and traverse rocky shorelines, forested wetlands, plunging cliffs, and one of the last remaining stands of old growth forest in Washington state. The plant and animal life in the park provides an outdoor classroom with an endless variety to appeal to every curious mind. Rock hounds will also savor the unique geology of the park.

Birdwatchers delight at the number of birds that can be found in a range of habitats within the park. Woodland species abound in the upland forests and on the rocky outcroppings surrounding the pass itself. Birders can view saltwater species on beach walks on the north and west sides of the park, as well as from the headlands at Rosario Beach and Bowman Bay. West Beach is one of the best places in the state to see Heermann’s gulls in migration during spring and fall. The birding checklist for the park includes 174 species.

In the woodland sections of the park, great horned, barred and saw-whet owls thrive. Several species of woodpeckers, including the magnificent pileated, are common sightings as well. The freshwater impoundments of Cranberry and Pass Lakes provide essential resting and foraging habitat for numerous waterfowl species, including the unique northern shoveler. Cranberry Lake abuts the main campground and is within easy walking distance, while Pass Lake requires a short drive for access. Both of these lakes are ideal for short day trips for boating and fishing. For kayakers, the calmer waters of Bowman Bay provide a safe alternative to the often-dangerous tidal flow of the pass itself.

Just across the bridge is the Bowman Bay-Rosario Beach complex, which offers another perspective to this amazing park. If you’re up for an easy hike that quite literally takes your breath away, hike to the top of Rosario Head for fantastic views of the pass, the park and the bridge. Be aware, however, that this rugged headland has sheer cliffs that plunge one hundred feet, straight down. Despite safety concerns, park administration has held firm against fencing the area, claiming that a fence would take away from the experience.

Cindy and I found a convenient window of opportunity to spend a couple of nights at the park in mid-October. The drive south along Chuckanut Drive and across the Samish Flats was an added bonus, especially with fall colors reaching their peak. Easy connections and light traffic make this drive quite pleasant. We enjoyed bits and pieces of a beautiful sunset on the first day as time allowed, given that we were busy setting up camp for the wind and rain that were forecast for the next few days. Winds at Rosario Head were gusting to 45 miles per hour on the day we hiked to the headland. Heavy rain at night, however, made for sound sleeping.

The main campground at Deception Pass is large and very well-planned. In contrast to many campgrounds, individual spaces aren’t crowded together and provide at least a semblance of privacy. Facilities throughout the park, including the day-use area, are first rate. In addition to the manmade conveniences, large Douglas firs dominate the landscape throughout the campground and offer shade on hot summer days.

*A special caveat for anyone intending to camp at Deception Pass: extremely uncomfortable noise from military jets at Naval Air Station — Whidbey Island can occur at any time, day or night, and last for several hours. This warning is posted in a number of locations at the park, as well as the Washington State Parks’ reservation system. Unless you’re an extremely deep sleeper, be sure to pack ear plugs or noise-cancelling headphones with your camping gear.


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